More stuff from Marco Specialties:
Yay! My bro came over last Friday and helped me set up a bunch more machines in my basement. Now up on their feet in various states of running:
I wheeled Shadow over to the newly-designated shop area for some upcoming shopping. Also note that Banzai Run is totally non-functional.
Here’s a highly distorted 180 degree panorama put together with Canon’s photo-stitch software:
I used Eagle to design an new eddy sensor board.
The schematic (based on the WMS one):
And the layout:
Pretty trivial 2 layer board. Had a small handful made over at PCB Express.
The parts all came from Digi-Key. The BOM breaks down like so:
| Part | Value | Digi-Key P/N | Manufacturer | Manuf. P/N |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C1 | 3300pf 100V 5% | 399-1821-1-ND | Kemet | C430C332J1G5CA7200 |
| C2 | 3300pf 100V 5% | 399-1821-1-ND | Kemet | C430C332J1G5CA7200 |
| C4 | 1mfd 25V 20% | 399-1887-1-ND | Kemet | C440C105M5U5CA7200 |
| D1 | 1N4148 | 1N4148DICT-ND | Diodes, Inc. | 1N4148-T |
| D2 | 1N4148 | 1N4148DICT-ND | Diodes, Inc. | 1N4148-T |
| J1 | 4 pin connector | WM2702-ND | Molex | 22-11-2042 |
| J2 | 2 pin connector | WM4200-ND | Molex | 22-23-2021 |
| LED1 | RED | 67-1105-ND | Lumex | SSL-LX5093ID |
| R1 | 9K09 1/4W 1% | 9.09KXBK-ND | Yageo | MFR-25FBF-9K09 |
| R2 | 1K8 1/4W 5% | 1.8KQBK-ND | Yageo | CFR-25JB-1K8 |
| R4 | 2K .15W 20% | EYG23BK-ND | Panasonic | EVM-EYGA00B23 |
| U1 | Eddy Sensor Chip | 497-2158-5-ND | STMicroelectronics | TDA0161DP |
| U2 | Opto Coupler | 4N35FS-ND | Fairchild | 4N35 |
Anywho, long story short, I soldered it together, stuck it in the machine and it worked! Although I did manage to bork the locations and sizes of the mounting holes! Way to go me!
The right eddy sensor board (WMS #A-16922, Prox Sensor II PCB Assembly) on my ST:TNG has crapped out. It always thinks a ball is present and trimming the pot doesn’t help.
Rather than spend any time trouble-shooting the board, I’ve decided to use this as an excuse to fab a circuit board, order parts, and assemble it. I’ve been doing a bunch of electronics stuff at work and I’m just itching to make a board for the pinball machines (even if it is a trivially simple one).
[1] Nope. That wasn’t it (FIXME – link). – 12/29/2006
Say cheeze!
Star Trek is up in the game room at my office. Good shape.
My company moved offices and it’s time to get the machines set up in the new company game room.
Removed D1 and D2. Both tested OK w/multi-meter. Replaced with new diodes anyway.
Since both of those tested good, I replaced and socketed the LM339 at U6.
Put the board back in the machine, BLECH! Very unhappy. On power-up random dots on the dot matrix display and several flashers on. Yikes. Turned it off quick.
Waited a little bit till I got my nerve back and turned the machine on again. Got the same random dots and flashers on.
“CHECK FUSES 114, 115” error message is back, and fuse 103 is very blown. The two flashers that are on are the romulan flasher and the right ramp flasher.
I definetely just made the problem worse[1].
[1] It turns out this was caused by me reconnecting a non-keyed ribbon cable backwards, and not by any repair attempts I made to the power driver board. FIXME: which cable? — 11/15/2006
Replaced bridge rectifiers BR1 & BR2[1] on PDB.
| TP2 | → | 5V | OK | (no change) |
| TP3 | → | 0.5V | BAD | (no change) |
| TP8 | → | 0.2V | BAD | (no change) |
Damn. No help there. Next I replaced C7 and C6. Still no change.
Other candidates for replacement: D1, D2, Q2 (LM7812 voltage regulator for 12V circuits), LM339 at U6. These are all components connected to the 12V that should be at TP3.
[1] Looking back at this (I was still just getting my feet wet back then), it seems like Q2, the 12V regulator, would have been the obvious first choice for replacement — 11/15/2006